Puglia is a region renowned for its stunning coastline, ancient olive groves, and, most importantly, its exceptional wines. Among the rich variety of wines produced in Puglia, two stand out for their unique characteristics and deep-rooted history: Primitivo and Negroamaro.
If you live in the UK, these days you'll undoubtedly see one or the other on the wine menus of decent restaurants, and you can usually get them in the big supermarket chains too.
Personally, I've had many a very enjoyable night (and day) with these two varieties of Puglia wine and can vouch for both! It's always very comforting to see them on sale in the UK, so I usually try and pick up a bottle or three when the opportunity arises. I've also included some recommendations for you below.
So let's take a look at these two iconic Puglia wine varieties, exploring their origins, flavours, and the best ways to enjoy them.
The Vineyards of Puglia
Puglia's landscape is a viticulturist's dream, with its sun-drenched plains and cooling coastal breezes creating a perfect environment for grape growing.
The region has been cultivating vines for thousands of years, with evidence of winemaking dating back to ancient Greek and Roman times.
Today, Puglia is one of Italy's largest wine-producing regions, with over 50,000 hectares of vineyards.
Puglia wine: Terroir and Climate
Puglia's terroir ('the complete natural environment in which a particular wine is produced, including factors such as the soil, topography, and climate...the characteristic taste and flavour imparted to a wine by the environment in which it is produced') is diverse, with soils ranging from rich, fertile plains to rocky, limestone-rich hillsides. The Mediterranean climate, characterised by hot, dry summers and mild winters, plays a crucial role in the development of the grapes, ensuring they reach full ripeness and concentration of flavours.
Primitivo Puglia: The Bold and the Beautiful
Primitivo, often considered the king of Puglia wines, is a bold, full-bodied red wine known for its intense flavors and high alcohol content. The name "Primitivo" comes from the Italian word "primo," meaning "first," reflecting the grape's tendency to ripen early.
Origins and history
The origins of Primitivo can be traced back to ancient times, with evidence suggesting that the grape was brought to Puglia by the Illyrians or Greeks. In the 18th century, a priest named Francesco Filippo Indellicati identified and cultivated the grape in Gioia del Colle, a town in central Puglia. The grape's similarity to the Zinfandel variety in California was later confirmed through DNA analysis, revealing that they are genetically identical.
Characteristics and flavour profile
Primitivo wines are characterized by their deep ruby colour and rich, complex aromas of dark berries, plum, and cherry, often accompanied by notes of spice, chocolate, and licorice. On the palate, Primitivo is full-bodied and robust, with high alcohol content (usually around 14-16%) and moderate acidity. The tannins are typically smooth and velvety, contributing to a long, lingering finish.
Pairing Primitivo with food
The bold flavors of Primitivo make it an excellent companion to hearty dishes. It pairs beautifully with grilled meats, such as steak or lamb, and rich, tomato-based pasta sauces. The wine's natural sweetness also complements spicy foods and barbecue dishes. For a truly authentic Puglian experience, try pairing Primitivo with local specialties like orecchiette pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe, or a classic Italian antipasto platter.
Negroamaro Puglia: The Dark and Mysterious
Negroamaro, another star of Puglian viticulture, is known for its deep, dark colour and complex, earthy flavors. The name "Negroamaro" is derived from two words: "negro," meaning black in Italian, and "amaro," meaning bitter, reflecting the grape's dark skin and slightly bitter taste.
Personally, I do think Negroamaro is a bit strong, full-bodied and intense for my palate, although that doesn't stop me from drinking it if that's what's on offer.
Origins and history
The history of Negroamaro is as ancient as that of Primitivo, with its roots likely extending back to the early Greek settlers in Puglia. The grape has been cultivated in the region for centuries, particularly in the Salento peninsula, where it thrives in the hot, dry climate and calcareous soils.
Characteristics and flavour profile
Negroamaro wines are noted for their deep, almost opaque color and complex bouquet of dark fruits, such as blackberry, black cherry, and plum, combined with earthy undertones of tobacco, leather, and spice. On the palate, Negroamaro is medium to full-bodied, with firm tannins and a balanced acidity that provides structure and elegance. The wine's slightly bitter finish is a hallmark of its unique character.
Pairing Negroamaro with food
Negroamaro's rich, earthy flavours make it a versatile wine for food pairing. It complements a wide range of dishes, from grilled meats and game to aged cheeses and hearty stews. The wine's acidity and tannic structure also make it a great match for tomato-based dishes and Mediterranean cuisine.
For a traditional Puglian pairing, serve Negroamaro with lamb ragù, eggplant parmigiana, or a simple pizza topped with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella.
Pictured: the wine regions of Puglia (image: WineFolly.com)
Exploring Puglia Wine Regions
To fully appreciate Primitivo and Negroamaro, it's worth exploring the specific regions within Puglia where these grapes are cultivated.
To be quite honest though, you can get both of these Puglia wine varieties pretty much anywhere in the region!
Manduria
Manduria, located in the Taranto province, is the heartland of Primitivo production. The Primitivo di Manduria DOC is renowned for producing some of the finest examples of this wine, characterized by their depth, complexity, and aging potential. Visiting the vineyards of Manduria offers a unique opportunity to taste Primitivo at its source and learn about the traditional winemaking techniques that have been passed down through generations.
Salento
Salento, the southernmost part of Puglia, is the primary region for Negroamaro, with the Salice Salentino DOC, in particular, famous for its high-quality Negroamaro wines. The peninsula's warm climate and diverse soils create ideal conditions for growing this grape, resulting in wines that are both powerful and elegant. A tour of Salento's wineries provides a glimpse into the rich history and culture of the region, along with the chance to sample some outstanding wines.
Tasting Tips and Wine Tours
For wine enthusiasts looking to explore Primitivo and Negroamaro in depth, visiting Puglia is an unforgettable experience. Many wineries in the region offer guided tours and tastings, providing insights into the winemaking process and the opportunity to sample a range of wines - the really good ones will also offer antipasti with the wines and guide you through the pairings.
Tasting Tips
You may already be an expert wine taster. But if like me, you're not, then here are some introductory tips on tasting Primitivo and Negroamaro:
Observe the colour: hold the glass against a white background to appreciate the deep hues of these wines.
Swirl and sniff: swirl the wine in your glass to release its aromas, then take a deep sniff to identify the complex bouquet of fruits, spices, and earthy notes.
Sip and savour: take a small sip and let the wine coat your palate, noting its body, acidity, tannins, and flavour profile.
Pair with food: enhance your tasting experience by pairing the wines with complementary foods, as suggested above (often there will also be pairing advice on the bottle).
Pictured: I visited Coppi vineyard in 2017 - look at the size of those barrels
Recommended Puglia Wine Tours
Several wine tours in Puglia offer immersive experiences, combining vineyard visits, tastings, and local culinary delights. Some popular options include:
From £71 / $90pp
Enjoy an exclusive tour of Masseria Torricella's vineyards and winery, accompanied by tastings of our estate's wines and products. After the guided tour, you'll taste four wines from the cellar paired with delicious local products. Book this experience
From £59 / $75pp
Explore a variety of native wines guided by expert sommeliers and the producers themselves. This experience not only enriches your own wine knowledge, but also offers the opportunity to listen to stories and anecdotes related to the wine culture of the region. Book this experience
From £23 / $29pp
Begin with a tour of the Moscato di Trani vineyard where you’ll learn about the unique characteristics and history of Apulian viticulture. You’ll hear about the different stages in the winemaking process before sitting down to a tasting of some of the valley’s top wines. The curated selection of four wines will include two whites, a red and a rosé, with a look at the story behind each one. Your tasting will be perfectly paired with tasty snacks of homemade local products. Book this experience
From £25 / $32pp
Learn about the wine culture in the region while trying different wines and food. A wine expert will tell you all about Apulia wines in a cosy wine bar with quaint views of a baroque style alley in the old town, close to the Basilica di Santa Croce. Here, you’ll be able to taste four different wines paired with four local foods. Book this experience
Pictured: an 'enoteca' in Ceglie Messapica, Puglia
Bonus tip for your Puglia wine
If you're renting a villa for a week or so, you'll be wanting to stock up on tasty Puglia wine. You have some great options and the second one, below, is not that well known by visitors.
Option 1: Buy your Puglia wine at the supermarket
Our friends in Puglia always tell me never to spend more than 5-6 euro on a bottle of wine in a Puglia supermarket. That's not surprising, given that it's just so inexpensive to produce over here.
If you want the true local experience, find a Eurospin supermarket. They're cheap and cheerful but you'll get absolutely loads for your money here.
If you're feeling in a slightly more luxurious mood, you can't go wrong with DOK supermarkets. They're a bit more upmarket and more expensive, but they feel nice to be in.
Option 2: Buy your Puglia wine at your local Enoteca
You'll probably have to Google it, but whichever town you're staying in should have at least one 'Enoteca' (pictured above). This is a little shop with absolutely huge vats of local wine, which you fill various sized containers with. It's usually priced at around 1.50 euro per LITRE (yes, you read that right), so taking a 5 litre container will cost you just 7.50 euro. That's nearly seven bottles of wine! (I've usually gotten a bit carried away and bought 5 litres of red, white and rose - cue extraordinary hangovers and leaving litres of wine when it's time to go home).
You can't expect miracles though, so it does live up to its name of cheap and cheerful. But for perfectly drinkable stock wine, it's a great shout. Plus there's something about the novelty of going to one of these places that it just so adorable.
Buying Puglia wine: some recommendations
££
Rated 4.7/5
The best Primitivo grapes are hand-selected from a single vineyard to create Masseria Altemura's iconic wine, characterised by complexity and finesse with the potential to evolve over time - the essence of Primitivo in its purest form. Displays a vivid ruby colour with orange reflections and opens with intense aromas of plums and small, black fruit which are followed by touches of balsamic, light herbs and white pepper.
£
Rated 4.5/5
Novantaceppi Primitivo Puglia is one of the most famous & popular wine brands in Europe. Born from the Latentia Winery (established in 1940) it boasts some of the most impressive vineyards & production facilities in Veneto, Friuli & Puglia. This bright red and full-bodied Primitivo is enriched by flavours of dark berries, cherries, cinnamon and black pepper, and pairs exceptionally well with pasta, red meat or cured cheese.
£
Rated 4.5/5
Packed with spiced plum and raspberry flavour, this is a rich, dark, velvety red. It's from Puglian maestro Angelo Maci, and his pride and joy winery that saved the region. It has twice been voted southern Italy’s finest. A customer top favourite. Check out this Puglia wine
£
Rated 5/5
Fantastic Italian Red wine Primitivo duo containing one bottle of Trastullo Primitivo and one bottle of Doppio Passo Primitivo: both the ever popular grape of Southern Italy producing rich, velvety smooth reds. They're made in a ripasso style whereby the grapes are picked in two separate harvests and the wine obtained from the first harvest goes through a second fermentation with the grape skins from the second. Check out this Puglia wine.
£
Rated 4.2/5
Founded in 1928, Casa Vinicola Botter remains a family-run winery that champions organic growing methods; meaning every sip has nature at its core. This is a full bodied, rich and velvety red that’s bursting with berry flavours: pair it with a deep and rich Italian meal. Check out this Puglia wine.
£
Rated 4.4/5
Intense ruby red colour with purple highlights. The bouquet is complex and rich with hints of ripe fruits and spices. Good body and structure. Matches well with pizza, barbeques and seasoned dishes. Check out this Puglia wine
£££
Rated 4.9/5
The Cantiniere Primitivo is a red wine grape and is the third-most planted grape in Puglia, Southern Italy. This Cantiniere, a fine example of Italian wine, is an elegant ruby red with spicy notes. Hints of plum, blackberry and black cherries makes it a great pairing with seasoned meats, roasts and all types of cheese. The grapes are hand cut and vinified with a temperature-controlled fermentation. They undergo a long maceration period so the silky, sublime tannins, colour and aromas can be developed.
The producers age this robust, limited edition organic red wine in steel barrels for 12 months so the flavour can develop.
Serenissima Primitivo Puglia (Vegan wine)
£££
Rated 4.9/5
A bold and fruity Primitivo bottled by the Cantina Tombacco, based near Padua, that was founded in 1919 and is currently run by the third generation of the family.
Lots of plum and blackcurrant on the nose with a hint of spice and black pepper in the background. Fruit continues on the palate with the addition of black cherry and some jammy tones. Full bodied, good balance and nice soft tannins. Excellent with a meat ragu, mature hard cheeses or even a umami rich baked aubergine and mushroom dish. Check out this Puglia wine
££
Enjoy red fruits, black cherry and notes of liquorice; the palate is well-rounded, with soft, supple tannins and a pleasingly fresh finish. Pair with Beef, Pasta, Lamb and Poultry
Tormaresca is made up of two estates in different areas of Puglia: in the central, inland region of Castel del Monte they have Aglianico, and in the Salento peninsula of the extreme south-east, Primitivo and Negroamaro. The grapes come from the Masseria Maìme estate in Salento, which runs along the coast and features a mixture of bush vines and newer cordon-trained plantings. Check out this Puglia wine
££
Sometimes no words are necessary. This wine draws inspiration from the hand gesture depicted on the label, known as Mucchietto in Italy and roughly translating as “what do you want from me?”. A bold hand gesture for a bold wine, overflowing with rich fruit and sweet spices.
Why buy (and love) Puglia wine?
Primitivo and Negroamaro are more than just wines; they're a reflection of Puglia's rich history, culture, and terroir. Whether you're a seasoned wine connoisseur or a curious novice, exploring these two iconic Puglia wines offers a journey of discovery and delight. From the bold, fruit-forward intensity of Primitivo to the dark, earthy elegance of Negroamaro, these wines capture the essence of Puglia in every sip.
So, raise a glass and toast to the beauty of Puglia's winemaking heritage. Salute!
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